If we’ve never met then I can say with some degree of certainty that no one would ever choose to use the word ‘dainty’ in a description of me. The food I like and enjoy also falls into the more robust category. For example I like meaty, rustic, slow cooked one pots that are drenched in flavour. I’m rather partial to the idea of being the overarching creator in the kitchen, where I constantly adjust to taste with a pinch of this or a smidge of that until the bubbling meaty gravy sings on my taste buds. I always follow some vague cooking principles from my head but I add my own twists here and there. As I sample and savour the juices it usually elicits an audible ‘Oh yes’ or ‘Lovely’ to myself, which heralds an even greater taste sensation when we finally get to the actual ‘meat on a plate’ moment. I also enjoy succulent joints of meat and luscious pies accompanied by in season vegetables. While I’m fond of the new and always keen to try it, I’m not ashamed to say that I love the traditional and in particular old dishes that have undergone a modern make over. My point in sharing these insights is really to emphasise that my subject this week is not an obvious fit for me. Cooking and serving food in small portions in little pots is something I didn’t think I’d ever particularly enjoy and yet here I am extolling the virtues of ……….wait for it……..the ramekin!
I had an epiphany of sorts. It began with a naughty little minx of a highly calorific dessert actually. Oh yes, the kind of dessert that adds inches to your waistline while you are just looking at it. It’s one that has enormous pulling power and you can smell the whiff of temptation even when it’s just a flat group of letters on a menu. I talk of none other than that brazen siren known as Crème Brulee. Of course my recent encounter was with an extra special version that involved some delectable, plump raspberries. ‘Summer Berry Crème Brulee’ was the title on the menu. I laughed as I noticed it came just before the words ‘Fruit Cocktail’. You really have to feel for the fruit cocktail in this instance. It’s like being photographed beside some current, buff bodied god that women swoon over. Needless to remark the fruit cocktail didn’t get a look in; all eyes were on the Summer Berry Crème Brulee.
And so it arrived looking deceptively innocent and small in its own personal ramekin. As I cracked the torched, sugar glazed topping like an Arctic polar bear doing a little fishing, my spoon pierced right through to the end of the dish and the fresh raspberries squirted their tart, acidic juices all over the custard. Oh this would be a slow one indeed, no need to rush it, I was going to appreciate every lick of tasty nuance – this could take some time! Now I really don’t want to suggest that it was the gastronomic equivalent of a sexual experience as, after all, it’s only food, but I would have to admit that offered a secret assignation right this second or a repeat performance of the Summer Berry Crème Brulee, I have a funny feeling the raspberry and custard would come out on top.
While the contents were obviously the star, that dainty little dish added to the overall charm. For a start I liked the way it controlled the portion; there was no chance anyone else at the table was getting any more than me. I could also see the merits of cooking and serving in the same dish; less washing up. That triggered the idea that the kids would probably get a kick out of these miniature adult servings that would be just right for them as a main were we to substitute a savoury dish in place of a creamy dessert.
I was more enthused than I had expected when I finally got around to digging out the ramekins from the back of the cupboard where they have resided unloved for quite some time. I can now tell you honestly that the ramekin is quite versatile. Mine are just the standard size, but if you do come across a more generous or extra large version I suggest you snap them up. On the other hand for breakfast, brunch, starters, desserts or small children, the ordinary ones are perfect. I started with some individual toad in the hole. These were a triumph. The sausage was almost cooked before I popped it into the little basin of batter, where it lay lazily against the side. As it cooked, the batter rose up around the sides and the result was a crispy, golden risen Yorkshire pudding with a delightful fat sausage jutting out the top at an angle, rather like the flake in a ’99. Macaroni and Cheese also works really well cooked like this. It was a bit messy and fiddly to start with but I also like the fact that you can cook the individual portions separately. If you do have people coming and going at different times it doesn’t mean re-heating things which can sometimes take the enjoyment level down a notch. Having an extra ramekin hanging around the fridge also meant I had a ready made, portion controlled evening supper. Some leftover chicken from one night made some great miniature chicken pot pies with filo pastry. I made up the filling, placed it in the ramekins, topped it with a little filo pastry and popped the whole lot on a tray into the freezer ready to go as a starter when I need them. I might even use them as part of a weekend lunch. Of course putting my ramekins into the freezer meant I had to buy some more, but at an average of about €1.50 to €2 each for standard ramekins, they are affordable.
Finally ramekins really come into their own when it comes to eggs. If you want to impress at breakfast then the ramekin will fool people into thinking you’ve made a huge effort every time. You can do something really simple like breaking the egg into the dish with a little butter, pepper and salt and baking them in the oven. Or you can find one of the gazillion more involved baked egg recipes on line. They have everything in them from bacon and cream to spinach and asparagus and most are idiot proof to cook. (A word of caution though be extra careful around the breakfast soufflés, they can be tricky to perfect.)
My message to you this week is to embrace the ramekin. With a little thought you too could be creating your diminutive, culinary masterpieces with surprisingly satisfying results. Maybe you already are! Let me know how you get on.
This post was written by me, Pat Whelan, owner of James Whelan Butchers and a passionate advocate of local artisan food. My family have been producing quality Irish Angus beef for generations using a traditional dry aging process. This tradition is one that I continue to practice at our abattoir on our family farm in Garrentemple, Clonmel. These posts aim to impart some of the wisdom to readers and help them get the best out of the meat they eat! Our meat is available online here! I welcome your feedback to [email protected]
We hope you enjoyed reading this post by Pat Whelan of James Whelan Butchers. Pat is a 5th generation butcher, cook book author and the director of James Whelan Butchers with shops in Clonmel, the Avoca Handweavers Rathcoole and Kilmacanogue, Dunnes Stores Cornelscourt, Rathmines and Swords in Dublin. Sign up to our newsletter for more updates from James Whelan Butchers
Tags: Creme Brulee, foodie articles, James Whelan Butchers, Pat Whelan
